Rehely visitor centre to Turkeve on E4: Day 39

Much of today was through parts of the Koros-Maros National park where they are trying to create a "steppe" environment.
First I had to get out of bed which I did with some trepidation as last night I threw out two very large, black beetles (?) and a small, black centipede thing scurried under my bed. Nature is all very well but I did not fancy stepping on one of these things. It also meant I spent the night imaging things were crawling on me, although in part my itchy feeling was due to bites I received the previous night at my riverside campsite. Some unknown insects attacked my underarms and groin.
First part of today's walk allowed a closer look at the water buffalo kept by the Rehely visitor centre. Then it was along an old railway embankment. This was much overgrown with fallen trees making progress a struggle in places. I revived myself with a typical, strong Hungarian coffee in a little bar in Ecsegfalva, just a wooden shack with an awning beside it and a some mismatched chairs and tables. I am getting fond of these little bars generally occupied by a few men drinking beers or something stronger, even first thing in the morning. I join the occasional women drinking a coffee or Pepsi. They remind me of the little, one room bars in a town on the west coast of Ireland that my wife and I visited when we first became intimate. We revisited the place several years later and the little bars had been supplanted by seafood restaurants and the like. Come to Hungary now before it to changes!
After coffee I followed the meandering of the river embankment without much sight of the river itself on its broad flood plain. There was much steppe like grassland with a few large birds (although I could see no Bustards), skittish deer and a couple of farms. At one of these I sent the free range pigs racing in all directions, the geese into a flurry of honking and caused anxious turkeys to usher their children to safety, just by walking past. Then it was through trees before exiting the Kektura to reach the Thermal Campsite at Turkeve.
It was called Thermal as it was attached to a Spa emitting some smelly vapours from what I assume were meant to be healing waters. With no swimming trunks I gave the baths a miss but there were plenty of campers of various nationalities walking back and forth to the baths in their swimwear. The middle aged men were mainly in "speedo" trunks. With their bulging waistlines over hanging these brief items it was not a good look.
Slightly disappointed that the spa restaurant was not serving food an hour before its official closing time, I headed into town. I found two Pizzerias, both "zarva" i.e. closed, so it was off to the Coop for bread and cheese (and tomatoes, a doughnut etc.). I  ate them in the tent to the cosy sound of a shower pit-patting on the "canvas".

Very large fields of, in this case, hay bales

Korosladany to Rehely visitor centre: Day 38

A beautiful start to the day by the river was followed by long, monotonous, straight farm tracks passed large fields. The walk ended well seeing Great Bustards at the Rehely visitor centre.
I was packed up by 6:10 in time to see a large, red sun rise over the embankment, illuminating the jet trails in the sky. As I walked the last 5 kilometres along the river embankment to Korosladany the trees beside the river were a vivid green in the early morning sun and the grass sweeping down from the path was as bright as a newly mown lawn.
Reaching Korosladany I joined the "bike run" as mothers took their children to school before picking up some shopping. I had to take care as the pavement/cycle path was busy with bikes, and I was given at least one warning shout. Still, I reflected that using bikes was far preferable to the polluting cars and 4 x 4's that crowd the street around the school near my home. Then I felt guilty as people here probably use bikes as they cannot afford a car, and one should not want people to be poor. Nevertheless, come to Hungary and experience it now before it all changes.
After a fully loaded hamburger, juice and expresso, all for just over £3 (another reason for coming to Hungary now are the reasonable prices), I began the less exiting part of the day, involving some 20 kilometres of straight farm tracks through agricultural land. The agriculture provided some diversion, sunflower seeds were being harvested and tractors pulled trailers up and down the road. There was also an oil or gas well, in good condition but not producing anything. Some bird of prey were circling high in the air.
After a long straight street through Devavanya and more fields I reached the environs of the Rehely visitor centre. There were a number of interpretative signs with helpful English translations. I had been seeing a lot of lavender coloured wild flowers that grew on grassland giving it an attractive purplish hue. Thanks to the signs I now know it is called "Hungarian Statice". There was a rare look out tower that gave views across the plain, largely grassland at this point. The National park in which the visitor centre is located aims to preserve the Great Bustard, they have some tame roosters behind fencing so you can see them, also a museum, sheep and some helpful staff. The visitor centre also has some nice rooms where I am staying tonight. It was the only place that answered an e-mail when I was inquiring about accommodation for this trip, for which they deserve special thanks.

Sunrise by the river near Korosladany

Long roads through fields

A female Great Bustard

Veszto to Korosladany on E4: Day 37

Today's highlight was a visit to the Csolt archaeological site, the remainder of the day was passing fields large and small, extensive grassland and following rivers, largely hidden by trees.
Although everything is usually closed Sundays, the number of people riding bikes this morning suggested something was open in Veszto, so I headed to town centre. The fountains were already on and I was rewarded by an expresso and a sort of chocolate and coconut roll, rather heavy for this time of the morning. The waitress was writing up the latest lottery winning numbers on a poster on the wall as I ate. After seeing the highly mechanised harvesting of maize yesterday, today, near the edge of town, I saw a farmer and his wife cutting cobs by hand and throwing them into the trailer of an aged tractor. Quite a contrast.
Following a pleasant route beside a drainage canal (or maybe a canalised river) I reached the Csolt archaeological site. This included an open excavation showing skeletons and pottery from different periods, at different depths, in the locations in which they were discovered. Neolithic artefacts were at the deepest level followed by copper age and bronze age at progressively shallower levels and at the top, material from when there was a medieval church then monastery on the site. Explanations in the adjoining museum were in English as well as Hungarian which really helped. There was also a cafe, which of course I made use of, and a shaded picnic area by the river. A floating jetty allows you to view the pond weed on the river close up. The river no longer seems to be flowing, maybe a remnant from before the swamps were drained and the Sebes-Koros river confined to within its embankments.
As I continued on the Kektura the river was on one side and large fields or grassland on the other, but the river was invisible behind trees and thick vegetation. Rosehips and hawthorn provided spatters of red while the swollen purple-black sloes provided more subtle colour. The leaves of the white poplar fluttered green and white in the breeze. Occasional deer and hares shot off as I passed, the deer leaping over the higher grass, the hares making themselves invisible in some distant hollow.
I came across two bikes propped up and  a couple lying in the grass in the Sunday afternoon sun. She hastily put her top on, I said a cheery "Jo Napot" and hastily pressed on, feeling guilty for disturbing their peace.
After the Vidra restaurant  (no food, only drinks) I followed the main Sebes-Koros river to a spot marked on Google maps as a campsite. It is a wild campsite and a rare place where you can you can actually see the river where there are gaps between the trees. One family was camped there already but as it was a pleasant spot I camped out of their sight a little further along. I ate my tea while watching the sluggish flow of the river, listening to the "plops" presumably made by fish although I saw only ripples spreading outwards. As dusk approached the mosquitoes started to bite so I retreated to my tent, where I continued to hear the croaks of frogs among the sound of crickets.

Carving from the museum at the Csolt archaeological site

Wide expanse of grassland

Geszt to Veszto on E4: Day 36

My main memory of today is of very large fields of sunflowers and maize, but the scenery at the start of the day was quite different.
I survived the night, the engine noises turned out to be someone clearing out ditches late at night with his JCB, he was busy again this morning. Along with the mud, reeds and small fish he lifted out there were some large freshwater mussel shells that surprised me. While I could not see the lake (and the observation tower was roped off and marked dangerous), it was a pleasant early morning walk. "V" formations of honking geese flew overhead plus the occasional heron flying with their heads tucked in and their legs trailing behind. The Kektura leaves the lake through a swamp, although views of said swamp were obscured by bushes (which thankfully someone had cut back or they would have swallowed the path). Where the swamp was visible, with helpful signs on flora and fauna, it looked very dry. No doubt as it's the end of summer. The path winded its way through trees eventually arriving at Zsadany. A welcome cut of coffee followed.
And then I came to big fields which continued more or less until Veszto apart from a break for the village of Okany.  Okany has nice section of drainage canal with men spending their Saturday fishing on it. I stopped at a bar for a Pepsi, the bar lady was seemed disappointed I did not want her rubber stamp (used to prove you have walked the Kektura). After the village I admired the teams at work harvesting the maize, very big vehicles, harvesters and lorries, working together emptying the large fields of their crops in double quick time. A very efficient operation.
I am now at Musli Sziget Panzio in Veszto which has a pretty location overlooking a lake (but no sign). Veszto is a pretty town with geraniums on lampposts and neatly cut verges. But I was too late for the cake and coffee shop and the only thing that is open this Saturday night seems to be a hamburger take away, patronised by men with short hair cut in a similar way (a little longer on the top and a No 1 on the sides).

A morning flock of geese

Panoramic shot of large field of maize

Large field of Sunflowers

Korosszakal to Geszt on E4: Day 35

Today's walk on the Alfoldi Kektura took me close to the Romanian border at a number of points. It started along the embankment of the Sebes-Koros river, then passed through grassland and by lakes which are part of the Koros-Maros National park plus a number of villages.
I debated whether to take a shorter route along the road to avoid approaching the border on account of previous difficulties near Kismarja  (see blog for Day 30). I decided to go as far as the first village, Korosnagyharsany, as this section was not too close to the border, and then consider my next step. Soon after I turned onto the embankment of the river which was the first part of the route, I was addressed by a man at the bottom of the slope. Wanting no trouble I went down to see what he wanted. Although difficult as he had no more English than I had Hungarian, I understood he did not want me to proceed along the embankment as it went to Romania. He showed me his ID which indicated he was in the Polgárőrség, or civil guard organisation. I showed him the card that Bela Horvath helped me make up and indicated I was going to Biharugra and Geszt. This seemed to work and he allowed me to proceed along the Kektura after telling me how he had been in London in 1999.....or maybe that was when he tried to learn English and that I should learn Hungarian. Anyway, I was glad to proceed.
A kilometres or so later I was again called down from the embankment by some men by what I took to be an army jeep. It wasn't, instead they were offering me a welcome cup of coffee...even better they spoke English. They explained among other things that I was on a direct refugee route from the Romanian border. The refugees were told by the people smugglers to just follow the river into Hungary and it would lead them to Budapest (in fact the waters eventually flow into Serbia). The coffee and the friendly attitude gave me a boost and they reassured me that with my British passport I should be able to safely follow the Kektura through the border zone.
I soon after left the river and followed an abandoned railway line to Korosnagyharsany. The station sign was still there although the line is much overgrown. Then it was out of the village on an empty two lane road, then a right turn across grassland on another embankment for a long stretch with Romania just a few hundred metres to the south. I was again waylaid by a man on a motor bike checking I was not going to Romania. Otherwise I successfully reached the road for Biharugra after edging passed a flock of sheep. According to the map the road passed next to lakes known for their birds, but they were well hidden by tall reeds and trees. However at one point there was a side road to a raised observation platform with a sign describing the birds you could see. I could not see any of them. Possibly the wrong time of day as this evening I can hear hundreds of geese on a nearby lake.
By a smaller lake at the edge of Biharugra the border police stopped me half way through a peach and checked my passport. All was present and correct and they left me to finish my lunch. Then it was a long walk on open grassland followed by a large lake invisible behind the reeds. The map implies that you walk across the lake but it is misleading, the path, although overgrown for a short section, is largely dry and you are surrounded by reeds. Reeds were being harvested at one point, one man on the top of a lorry piled high with a mountain of reeds and the other passing bundles of reeds up.
On reaching Geszt after a large field of maize and sunflowers I visited Tisza Kastely, home to two rather important Hungarian prime ministers. As I entered the grounds a security guard stopped me and told me it was private. He then explained it's history, dating from 300 years ago. It is currently being restored and was covered with scaffolding. Leaving town the Kektura passes through and a cemetery, somewhat overgrown. At the edge was the Tisza family crypt.
After walking across grassland with lots of purple flowers (which I now know to be Hungarian statice), distant flocks of sheep and herds of cows, I have now set up camp in some woods, far away from anyone so I thought with only the sound of geese on the nearby, but invisible, lake. But now I am hearing barking dogs and the sound of some engine. The immigrant issue and the hunting season is making me jumpy!

Path along embankment close to Romania

Hungarian Statice

Berettyoujfalu to Korosszakal on E4: Day 34

Today's route included walking along an embankment beside a drainage canal, a long road section with high speed traffic and a pleasant walk on a track across the "prairie" plus three villages.

First I had a breakfast of "langos" and coffee from a stall at the edge of Berettyoujfalu. Langos is a fried dough, slightly salty. Perhaps because I did not eat much yesterday, the langos tasted delicious. 

Leaving town the Kektura followed a long section of cycle path along one of the embankments enclosing the Berettyo river (which also acts as a drainage canal). Willows and other vegetation lined the banks of the river, but the sides of the embankments were clothed in grass being cropped by flocks of sheep guided by their shepherds (I saw three of them). The odd heron and duck flew off as I walked along. In the villages that followed the storks nests were all empty unlike on my trip in June and July when parents were tending  young storks.

After the last village a cemetery, overgrown by shrubs obscuring the grave memorials, included some unusual wooden grave markers. Then a long length of road to walk along. There was not much traffic but as the road was so straight, dividing the flat "puszta" (or plain), cars were passing me at high speed and the occasional lorry created powerful side winds on a day that had turned quite windy.

Overcast skies covered the extensive grasslands that I turned onto along a small road and then a farm track. The road led to a gas gathering station although the nearby gas wells looked rusty and out of action. Cattle were grouped together at different places on the puszta with someone looking after them. I noticed several flocks of birds, some wheeling in the sky, some on the ground. It seemed a time of year when birds congregated together. 

It was a lengthy walk today but I finally reached Sylvia Vendeghaz in Korosszakal for a welcome shower, meal and rest, thanks to the kindly family who own it.

Telegraph poles across the grassland

Cycle track on the river embankment

Long straight road (no cars here but when they appeared they were very fast)

Nagykereki to Berettyoujfalu on E4: Day 33

Today the route was along farm tracks and on the embankments beside drainage ditches and canals. However it did not start well. At 3:30 am I had an attack of diarrhoea and another at 6:00 am. I  am assuming it was the stuffed cabbage and Debrecen sausage I ate last night. A local dish, probably only requested by rare tourists. Drinking lots of water I decided to forgo food until the evening, so it was just a small black coffee at the station before I caught the train (and a panic about where I put my phone).
After the train took me to Nagykereki with a pleasant bonk-bonk-bonk rhythm I headed off through the village with some trepidation given my previous experience in the area (see day 30). It was difficult to avoid attracting attention as dogs barked at every other house, people were cycling past with their morning shopping and a group of men stood waiting for something.  They stopped talking as I approached, I said a polite "Jo Napot" and passed by.
Eventually I left the village and walked through fields of maize and sunflowers. In July the maize was green and the sunflowers had their yellow heads held high towards the sun. Now the maize was straw coloured and the sunflowers grey, sadly hanging their heads. The wild flowers were however just as pretty.
A lot of the walk was beside drainage ditches and there were plenty of little flies forming large swarms, constantly changing shape. In places the house martins were out eating some of them. Elsewhere a stork flew with lazy wing beats and a small lizard crossed my path.
I do not normally use a walking stick (or are they called trekking poles?) but I did this time as one book advised it as a defence against dogs when walking in Serbia. It proved helpful here as well when a black dog raced up to me barking and with bared teeth. He clearly was not wanting a pat! Fortunately waving my stick helped keep him at a safe distance although he followed me for a while.
Reaching Berettyoujfalu I was thirsty so stopped for a Pepsi at a bar.  Another customer tried some conversation but my lack of Hungarian made this difficult although he and his girlfriend valiant efforts with their limited knowledge  of English. So I showed him a card I had made up with some help from the author of the best website of the Kektura, Bela Horvath. It says I am an English tourist walking on the Alfoldi Kektura, I am not lost, I am not a refugee, or in Hungarian "Angol túrázó vagyok. Az Alföldi Kéktúrát járom. Nem tévedtem el. Nem vagyok menekült. Köszönöm!". They thought it very amusing.
Spending the night at the Liget Szallashely and have just enjoyed a meal at the Bella Costa restaurant. Hopefully I will not have to rush to the toilet tonight!

Sunflowers awaiting harvesting

Some of the wildflowers beside one of the embankments the path follows