Monday 18 September 2017

Martely to Szeged on E4: Day 45

Today's achievement was reaching Szeged where I will be spending my last night in Hungary.
I rose at first light and packed. The new sun in the clear skies made the trees look a vivid green and cast sharp and dark shadows. Initially it was cold but soon I had shed my jacket and the sun rose in the sky.
Following the meandering embankment I reached a main road crossing the Tisza. Crossing the bridge I left behind the trail marked with red lines. I had planned to continue south to Szeged on the embankment on the west side of the river, but changed my mind on seeing a cycle track sign marked Szeged 11 kilometres. I had walked quite a few embankments and there were more in Serbia so I thought a change was in order. It would also get me into Szeged a little earlier so I could do a spot of sightseeing.
The cycle route was beside a busy road and a complete contrast to the little villages I had been walking through for the last two weeks. After some countryside, there was an industrial area which included some oil or gas wells and an oil refinery. Then it was blocks of flats and finally it was the older area around the centre, rebuilt after a big flood in the 19th century. I checked into the Novotel having decided to spoil myself before heading out to view the splendid architecture and squares of the city centre. 
I had an expresso first and found that what cost me maybe 110 forints in a village bar cost 330 forints in Szeged off Szechenyi square, however as this is just one pound sterling, you cannot complain too much. For lunch I went to a road off the square recommended by the hotel receptionist, a pedestrianised road there were lots of pavement cafes and restaurants.
The votive church was completed in 1930, a result of a vow taken by survivors of the great flood. Outside the brickwork did not inspire me but inside I thought the paintings that covered the interior looked spectacular. Modern but with an echo of the fresco painters of the Renaissance.
Evening meal was at the Halszcsarda: turkey, sour cream and tarragon soup followed by catfish with paprika sauce. Very enjoyable watching the world go by....

A GPS file of this route can be obtained from wikiloc.com. If you want to follow my continuing rambles along the E4 in Serbia go to johnpone4serbia.blogspot.com

River Tisza in the morning near where I camped

Inside the Votive church Szeged

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