Rain was falling on my tent waking me at 4:30 a.m.. My tent, a Nordisk Telemark, has many fine points (such as weighing under a kilogram and with pegs that don't bend) but it does tend to collect rainwater in a pool on the flysheet above my feet, which drips into the tent if you touch it from inside (and sometimes if you don't). Consequently I was very careful not to disturb any such pool until I got up. By 5:30 I decided I might as well get an early start as I had over 30 km to walk and a well over 1000m ascent.
I climbed up into the Bukk hills through intermittent showers passing a chapel with some sheltered seats where I had some breakfast. Snails were enjoying the wetness and I had to be careful to avoid stepping on some large examples. The rain had also turned the remaining autumn leaves a rich russet, contrasting with the new bright green leaves. Walking down towards Belapatfalva I passed an old Cistercian abbey and for a 500 forint ticket the two men on site let me in to have a look at the plain but spiritual interior. At Belapatfalva the Coop was open (although it was Sunday) so I picked up some snacks for lunch, sipped coffee at the bar nearby and visited a cash machine to top up on money, delivered in very high denominational notes that no-one wants.
I was worried by the long, steep climb after Belapatfalva as my right hip had started to be painful when I walked with my rucksack on. Making matters worse I took a wrong fork and walked for a kilometre uphill on the wrong path, forcing me to retrace my steps. Instead of concentrating on the "blue lines" which mark the route I had been thinking about the pre-World War 1 map of Hungary on the wall of the bar I was in earlier, at the time Hungary was much larger. I had been reading a book set in Hungary at the end of the 19th century. The main protagonists were aristocrats living in Transylvania, then part of Hungary. I guess there is some nostalgia in Hungary for that time when it was much larger, although I guess the Romanians are happier with the way things are now, as they formed the major ethnic group in Transylvania.
As I approached my destination of Bankut the number of people grew, the sun having come out and it being a Sunday. Bankut appears to be just two buildings among the trees. I checked into one, the Feher Sas Panzio where the lady in charge made great efforts to speak in English. After a very hot soup and dish of meat and dumplings I went for a walk to the local look out tower. There was a lovely view to the west with the red sun setting over the distant hills but I admit I was a bit worried about climbing down the ladder that lead to the top platform what with the wind and being alone, so I did not stay long...
I climbed up into the Bukk hills through intermittent showers passing a chapel with some sheltered seats where I had some breakfast. Snails were enjoying the wetness and I had to be careful to avoid stepping on some large examples. The rain had also turned the remaining autumn leaves a rich russet, contrasting with the new bright green leaves. Walking down towards Belapatfalva I passed an old Cistercian abbey and for a 500 forint ticket the two men on site let me in to have a look at the plain but spiritual interior. At Belapatfalva the Coop was open (although it was Sunday) so I picked up some snacks for lunch, sipped coffee at the bar nearby and visited a cash machine to top up on money, delivered in very high denominational notes that no-one wants.
I was worried by the long, steep climb after Belapatfalva as my right hip had started to be painful when I walked with my rucksack on. Making matters worse I took a wrong fork and walked for a kilometre uphill on the wrong path, forcing me to retrace my steps. Instead of concentrating on the "blue lines" which mark the route I had been thinking about the pre-World War 1 map of Hungary on the wall of the bar I was in earlier, at the time Hungary was much larger. I had been reading a book set in Hungary at the end of the 19th century. The main protagonists were aristocrats living in Transylvania, then part of Hungary. I guess there is some nostalgia in Hungary for that time when it was much larger, although I guess the Romanians are happier with the way things are now, as they formed the major ethnic group in Transylvania.
As I approached my destination of Bankut the number of people grew, the sun having come out and it being a Sunday. Bankut appears to be just two buildings among the trees. I checked into one, the Feher Sas Panzio where the lady in charge made great efforts to speak in English. After a very hot soup and dish of meat and dumplings I went for a walk to the local look out tower. There was a lovely view to the west with the red sun setting over the distant hills but I admit I was a bit worried about climbing down the ladder that lead to the top platform what with the wind and being alone, so I did not stay long...
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| Cistercian abbey by Belapatfalva |
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| Russet remains of last Autumn's leaves |
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