My night was not as peaceful as I expected as someone was riding a motorcycle up and down the farm tracks late into the evening. There were also sounds of a tractor doing something, thankfully not cutting the grass in the field I was camping in.
Today had some beautiful sections. After struggling through some overgrown and clearly rarely used sections I reached one of the straight drainage ditches that are presumably responsible for changing the landscape from a swamp into large areas of farmland. These drains, the straight tracks beside then, the big fields of wheat with no hedges and the occasional copses reminded me of the Fens and the area south of Wisbech where I have two cousins. One difference was a flock of sheep cropping the grass on the banks of one of the drains and looking fat and healthy on it. They were escorted by a shepherd and his two dogs of indeterminate breeding. The dogs raced up to me barking aggressively, I stood my ground turning to avoid them getting behind me, various sources had indicated that such sheepdogs can be very protective. The shepherd shouted commands at the dogs, waved his stick and walked towards me. After the usual exchange in which I explained I was a stupid English person who did not speak Hungarian I checked (with hand gestures) that it was OK to pass through his flock so as to continue on my route. He said "Egen" (yes) so I slowly moved through his flock trying not to disperse the sheep, then moved steadily away while the dogs mounted a rearguard fit of barking. Shortly after I disturbed a deer which ran off and then stopped and turned around as if to check what I was, then it trotted off on its way.
After Cigand (and a stop to buy my breakfast of Pepsi and a slice of what might have been meant to be Pizza) the path followed the northern embankment of the Tisza river. The river was invisible behind trees until I later crossed it. This is one of Hungary's great rivers. I hope to be joining it again when I enter Serbia on a later part of my walk, with I expect a similar landscape. The land had been almost perfectly flat but south of the Tisza the soil turned sandy and there were low hills, ancient sand dunes maybe. Crops were being irrigated as I passed. For the final section of the day the path followed a drain lined with willow, poplar and elder. It reminded me of a picture by Constable. My presence disturbed ducks which flew into the air catching the wind above the trees. I also disturbed herons and group of storks.
The conurbation of Varos and Kisvarda is a reasonable sized town with a ruined castle, pedestrianised area and a rather nice coffee and cake shop. I am now at the Parish Bull hotel, where the decor may be a bit "over the top" for many people's taste, but where I have nevertheless enjoyed beer and dinner.
Today had some beautiful sections. After struggling through some overgrown and clearly rarely used sections I reached one of the straight drainage ditches that are presumably responsible for changing the landscape from a swamp into large areas of farmland. These drains, the straight tracks beside then, the big fields of wheat with no hedges and the occasional copses reminded me of the Fens and the area south of Wisbech where I have two cousins. One difference was a flock of sheep cropping the grass on the banks of one of the drains and looking fat and healthy on it. They were escorted by a shepherd and his two dogs of indeterminate breeding. The dogs raced up to me barking aggressively, I stood my ground turning to avoid them getting behind me, various sources had indicated that such sheepdogs can be very protective. The shepherd shouted commands at the dogs, waved his stick and walked towards me. After the usual exchange in which I explained I was a stupid English person who did not speak Hungarian I checked (with hand gestures) that it was OK to pass through his flock so as to continue on my route. He said "Egen" (yes) so I slowly moved through his flock trying not to disperse the sheep, then moved steadily away while the dogs mounted a rearguard fit of barking. Shortly after I disturbed a deer which ran off and then stopped and turned around as if to check what I was, then it trotted off on its way.
After Cigand (and a stop to buy my breakfast of Pepsi and a slice of what might have been meant to be Pizza) the path followed the northern embankment of the Tisza river. The river was invisible behind trees until I later crossed it. This is one of Hungary's great rivers. I hope to be joining it again when I enter Serbia on a later part of my walk, with I expect a similar landscape. The land had been almost perfectly flat but south of the Tisza the soil turned sandy and there were low hills, ancient sand dunes maybe. Crops were being irrigated as I passed. For the final section of the day the path followed a drain lined with willow, poplar and elder. It reminded me of a picture by Constable. My presence disturbed ducks which flew into the air catching the wind above the trees. I also disturbed herons and group of storks.
The conurbation of Varos and Kisvarda is a reasonable sized town with a ruined castle, pedestrianised area and a rather nice coffee and cake shop. I am now at the Parish Bull hotel, where the decor may be a bit "over the top" for many people's taste, but where I have nevertheless enjoyed beer and dinner.
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| Bridge over the Tisza |
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| Tisza river |
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| Path beside a drainage canal before Kisvarda |
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